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Article

The Fashion Industry’s Shift to an AI/ML Operating Model

Consumer goods fashion & apparel
Bill McRaith

Bill McRaith

Former CSCO at PVH - Member of the o9 Executive Council

5 read min

For decades, the fashion industry thrived on a push-based supply chain model - where design, merchandising, planning, and procurement operated in long, linear cycles. The industry’s core processes remained unchanged, even as brands expanded globally, moving production offshore for lower labor costs.

This model worked when price and scale were competitive advantages. Margins absorbed inefficiencies, and markdowns were an accepted cost of business.
Today’s landscape is different.

A handful of global style-hubs no longer dictate fashion trends. The rise of regional micro-influencers, real-time consumer engagement, and AI-powered personalization have forced brands to rethink everything from design and demand forecasting to supply chain agility.

The industry has reached a turning point. Competing on price and quality is no longer enough. To win, brands must embrace machine learning (ML) and artificial intelligence (AI) as the foundation of their operating models.

The shift from push to pull: why traditional fashion planning no longer works

The old model: a linear, predictive system

Fashion brands and retailers once operated in predictable cycles. The process was simple, but the challenges were massive:

  • Design: Influenced by a handful of fashion shows, trend services, and mass media, collections were developed six months before - far removed from actual consumer demand.
  • Merchandising & Planning: Buying decisions were made based on past sales data, competitor assortments, and seasonal estimates - locked in well before any actual demand signals emerged.
  • Supply Chain: Production was optimized for cost, not speed or flexibility. Orders were placed 4-5 months out, with little room to adjust for in-season shifts.

This model had flaws - markdowns, overstock, and lost sales were common. However, the declining cost of apparel (down 60% over decades) meant retailers could afford these inefficiencies.
That era is over.

The new reality: complexity, speed, and the rise of consumer-driven demand

Fashion is now dictated by hyper-personalized, real-time consumer engagement.

  • Trend influence has decentralized. No longer driven by Paris, Milan, or New York, style shifts now originate from hundreds of thousands of micro-influencers worldwide.
  • Consumer expectations demand immediacy. The ability to quickly respond to real-time sales data and shifting demand is a core competitive advantage.
  • Traditional forecasting methods can’t keep up. The old process of predicting demand months in advance is ineffective in an era where fashion trends emerge and fade in weeks.

The challenge is even greater for global brands. The market has fragmented into four primary regions, over 100 retail countries, and thousands of store and demographic clusters. Balancing localization, agility, and cost efficiency while navigating rising trade barriers requires a new operating model.

Why AI and ML are now essential

In today’s fashion ecosystem, ML and AI aren’t just efficiency tools but the foundation of decision-making. The new AI-powered operating model fundamentally reshapes how brands design, plan, and execute.

1. Design: From gut feel to data-driven creativity

Old model: Limited trend inputs - fashion shows, movies, color forecasts - shaped collections months in advance.
New model: AI and ML analyze thousands of global inputs in real time:

  • ML: Captures fashion trends from influencers, entertainment, materials, trims, and emerging styles.
  • AI: Detects regional sentiment, aligns brand DNA, and refines copywriting for specific markets.
  • Outcome: Designers shift from rigid seasonal planning to timeless, adaptable collections.

2. Merchandising & Planning: AI replaces subjectivity

Old model: Merchants acted as a bridge between consumers and planners, relying on intuition, historical sales, and competitor analysis.
New model: AI and ML eliminate subjectivity, making planning an evidence-based function.

  • ML: Collects store-level data across thousands of global locations, maps supply chain predictability, and optimizes inventory distribution.
  • AI: Builds assortment plans dynamically, predicting demand at the store level while continuously refining allocations.
  • Outcome: 98%+ full-price sell-throughs, reducing markdowns and optimizing profitability.

The result? The traditional merchant role disappears. Planning now directly integrates real-time consumer behavior into decision-making.

3. Supply Chain: From cost-first to agility-first

Old model: Sourcing decisions focused on lowest-cost suppliers, locking in production months in advance.
New model: AI dynamically balances speed, cost, and resilience - optimizing global supply flows in real time.

  • ML: Tracks supply chain performance, from raw materials to final delivery, mapping production lead times and costs.
  • AI: Adjusts sourcing strategies dynamically, moving production offshore, nearshore, or onshore based on shifting demand and market conditions.
  • Outcome: A fully adaptive supply network that prioritizes speed and profit over static cost-based sourcing.

4. Inventory & Logistics: A continuous optimization loop

Old model: Inventory was pre-allocated months in advance, requiring manual interventions for in-season adjustments.
New model: AI-driven logistics continuously re-project inventory needs as sales unfold.

  • ML: Reads sales trends in real time, triggering automatic inventory movements from DCs to stores.
  • AI: Determines the most profitable allocation - whether to replenish, hold, or shift inventory between locations.
  • Outcome: Eliminates traditional Open-to-Buy constraints, reducing stranded stock and lost sales.

Logistics and distribution are no longer static functions in this model - they become fully AI-determined processes.

The future of fashion: AI as the operating system

The fashion industry has spent decades optimizing for cost. That game is over. The new differentiator is intelligence - the ability to rapidly align product, supply chain, and demand in a constantly shifting market.

What's next?

  • AI-driven design innovation - predicting micro, regional, and global trends.
  • Hyper-localized assortments - tailored at the store and demographic level using ML-driven planning.
  • Adaptive sourcing strategies - balancing offshore, nearshore, and onshore in real time.
  • Full-price sell-through dominance—minimizing markdowns and maximizing profitability.

Fashion isn’t just moving faster - it’s becoming intelligent, self-optimizing, and predictive. Companies that embrace this shift will thrive, while those that don’t will be left behind.

Key takeaways for fashion leaders

  • AI is no longer an efficiency tool - it’s the foundation of decision-making.
  • Merchandising as a function is disappearing. Planning now directly integrates consumer behavior.
  • Supply chains must prioritize agility, not just cost.
  • Brands that embrace AI/ML will maximize profitability and minimize markdowns.

The fashion industry has spent decades trying to predict demand. The future belongs to those who can sense and respond in real time.

Want to see how AI-powered planning transforms fashion? Download our latest report on the future of retail supply chains.

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About the authors

Bill McRaith

Bill McRaith

Former CSCO at PVH - Member of the o9 Executive Council

Bill McRaith is a supply chain leader with a global manufacturing and supply chain management background for major retailers and brands. Since retiring at the end of 2021, he has been focusing on onshoring and dynamic planning while also working toward the industry’s sustainability and profitability objectives.
From 2011 to 2021, he was Chief Supply Chain Officer of PVH Corp., where he oversaw global operations and developed production and logistics structures worldwide. Before joining PVH, Bill worked as Walmart’s Senior Vice President of Sourcing. Earlier in his career, Bill was the Executive Vice President of Manufacturing, Sourcing, and Product Development for Victoria’s Secret and the Chief Supply Chain Officer Intimates at Limited Brands.
Bill began his career in apparel manufacturing in the UK before building supply chains across Asia, the Indian Sub-Continent, Latin America, and Ethiopia. Bill is a native of Scotland and holds an IMS certificate from Kirkcaldy Technical College. He is a FIT International Trade & Marketing Advisory Board member and an Honorary Professor of Glasgow Caledonian University.

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